The Russell Craft Fair was enticing cruise ship passengers, tourists and locals to stop and spend with a wide selection of locally-made products. I spoke with a quilter who was hoping to sell this beautiful quilt featuring animals and plants indigenous to New Zealand and some traditional Maori images. Kiwi, morepork (owl), tuatara (lizard), pukeko, silver and tree ferns, pohutukawa tree with its crimson flowers and, of course, sheep are included in the fabrics. A packet of NZ fat quarters is coming home with me.

February 2

Our first stop on the North Island is the resort town of Paihia on the Bay of Islands. We took a short ferry ride across the bay to the lovely seaside town of Russell with its busy harbour, quaint seaside hotels and homes, interesting shops and a history closely related to the sea. It’s reminiscent of Chester and Mahone Bay. Cruise ships often include a stop here.

Whaling drew early Europeans to the area. The museum’s displays include the history of whaling and fishing, a scale model of Captain Cook’s Endeavour and items related to Maori and colonial history. Charles Darwin was a visitor to the area in 1835. The ‘lawless society’ of European fishermen and traders prompted him to make a sizeable donation to this Anglican Church.

Pompallier House was a French mission in the early 1800s.

Homes overlook the harbour.

A vertical garden wall separates a restaurant patio from the road. Succulents are popular garden and potted plants.

The landscape is dramatic, with volcanic forms rising from the tropical rainforest. Closer to the coast, homes and gardens are scattered across the lowlands. Surrounding the island are beautiful beaches and the reef where waves crash over the coral. Paddlers, swimmers and snorkellers are warned to stay away from the reef and the strong currents created at the few openings.

Headpieces made with fresh flowers are sold in many locations for about $30. These were on display at our local gas / grocery store, Wigmore’s.

Two buses travel a single route on the 32-km main road that circumnavigates the island, providing an hourly service. One travels clockwise, the other anti-clockwise – and that’s how they’re identified. While stops are predetermined, it’s acceptable to flag down the bus anywhere along the road. These buses are basic, standard transmission, no-frill units. Windows and doors are open to provide a hint of cool air. Travelling the island by bus was a great way to see the beaches, villages, schools and churches and to chat with locals and fellow travellers.

A gorgeous day on the beach at Muri, a resort town. We kayaked in the warm rain to avoid the hot sun. We spotted something new (to us) underwater – cobalt blue starfish!

Cruise boats ready to tour the lagoon. Look closely at the horizon for the line of white surf marking the reef.

Celebrating our 48th anniversary with a walk to the beach and an afternoon in the shade.

Our last evening in the Cook Islands. We’ll be heading to the airport at Avarua for an early morning flight to Auckland. We leave Rarotonga on Saturday morning and arrive 4 1/2 hours later in Auckland on Sunday morning, our first crossing of the International Date Line.

Our Lagoon Breeze resort is a winter getaway for many Western Canadians as they can fly from Vancouver to LA to Rarotonga. Some have been spending a few weeks every winter here for many years. Twelve of us, all Canadians, took advantage of the opportunity to attend a progressive dinner in the home of local Rarotongans. We travelled in a small bus, picking up other visitors along the way, and enjoyed a selection of appetizers at the first home near Avarua where we learned a little about local agriculture, politics and tribal government. This house had been in the family for a few generations.

A much-anticipated appetizer, according to the pre-dinner chatter on the bus, was a local specialty, ika mata. This ceviche is a delicious combination of fresh fish, finely-chopped vegetables and seasonings: http://www.bite.co.nz/recipe/1693/Ika-mata-Cook-Islands-raw-fish-salad/

Dinner was served at a new home high above Avarua with a lovely view to the airport and the sea. Our hostess was delightful and funny; her stories about meeting her husband and moving to Rarotonga from one of the tiny islands were charming. She referred to him as her houseboy, a comment that elicited a sly grin from him. He entertained us be providing soft background music.

Once we’d eaten our fill of fish, chicken, salads and hot vegetable dishes, all involving local ingredients, we were off to find dessert in Avarua.

Pavlova, fresh fruit salad, key lime pie, chocolate cake and ice cream were presented by a retired teacher who enjoys baking desserts and travels to New Zealand regularly to visit family and friends. Pavlova is the national dessert of the Cook Islands and New Zealand, available ready-to-embellish with fruit and ice cream in grocery stores and on restaurant menus.

We enjoyed an interesting evening with new experiences and flavours enjoyed with new friends.

We had an sopportunity to learn more about the local agriculture and crafts at the large market in the main town of Avarua. Vendors offer sight-seeing tours, snorkelling packages and dune buggy adventures, BBQ and fast food meals, as well as more familiar market fare.

Bananas, coconuts, mangos, papayas and green beans are grown locally and sold at a few stands although the market appears to be intended to attract tourists with souvenir T-shirts, smocked sundresses, sarongs, and some hand-crafted items. These caught my eye: ukuleles, hand-carved masks and ornaments, quilts and purses, geckos and totes.

Drinking ontainer and beverage in one package – ideal for the thirsty shopper. Poke a hole, add a straw and sip. Drinking coconuts sell out quickly.

Every week, different resorts on Rarotonga present ‘Island Night,’ traditional dancing, drumming and music for the enjoyment of tourists. I’m guessing that there might be only 1 troupe that provides performances around the island.

We took the clockwise bus and asked the driver to let us off at the closest stop to a beautiful beachfront resort.

The buffet menu featured local dishes with rice, vegetables, fish, goat, chicken and pork. Salad dressings are mayo-based, and the main ingredient in creamy sauces is coconut milk. Local greens and fruit such as mango and papaya are found in many dishes.

After dinner, the show started with this performance by a local talent as the MC. (We spotted him in full costume at the weekend market, offering to pose for photos with tourists.)

Traditional costumes were worn by the female and male performers in these videos.

The Apollo space flights splashed down in the geographical area of the Cook Islands, the only territory outside of the US where they landed.

In 1975, stamps were issued to commemorate the Islands’ role in the missions.

January 23

A rainy day on Rarotonga is the perfect opportunity to explore the library / museum in Avarua, the main town.

Women’s work is featured in weaving, basketry, applique and needlework. On display were a few examples of tivaivai, appliquéd and pieced bedcovers. These aren’t layered and quilted as we’re accustomed to seeing in North America; warm bedding is not needed in this climate. Tivaivai may be embellished with embroidery. Most are kept for display on special occasions or presented at public gift-giving events such as weddings and christenings.

Bark cloth, or tapa, is made in the islands of the Pacific and was traditionally used for clothing, bedding and shrouds. It had great social importance and was often given as gifts. Captain James Cook was the first European to collect and introduce bark cloth to the rest of the world.

January 23

A tropical garden: colourful blooms, lush growth and steamy heat, the rainy season in the Cooks. During our first week, it rained throughout each day, from a light mist that didn’t wet the ground to heavy, brief downpours. Temperatures were steady around 30C with a humidex of 32-36.

January 20

Kia Orana!

An overnight flight from Los Angeles brought us to the island paradise of Rarotonga. We were greeted with leis and welcome kisses at the airport then whisked away to the Lagoon Breeze Villas for our stay.

Facilities include a salt-water pool and shaded lounging areas with BBQs, a children’s playground and beautiful gardens. The beach is a few steps across the road, and the resort provides snorkelling and kayaking gear for guests.

Lush vegetation thrives in the warm humidity. A few chickens, roosters, cats and dogs roam the property and the entire island.

Watch https://youtu.be/eXCCzw5bn20 for an informative and entertaining video by Cook Islands Tourism.