February 14
The Oceanarium is the main exhibit tank that gives visitors the opportunity to walk through a tunnel for close-up views of sharks, rays and other fish that live in Hawke’s Bay.
These tropical fish are similar to ones we saw in the Cook Islands.
February 13
Hawke’s Bay is well-known for its vineyards and wineries and worth a guided tour.
Our guide arrived in this beautiful vehicle, a Tesla. Another first for me – travelling in an autonomous car.
February 13
The annual Art Deco Festival was in full swing during our stay in Napier. A brief history: the town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and rebuilt in the style of the times, Art Deco. The central business district features many fine examples that have been adapted to meet current building codes to withstand earthquakes, while some buildings have been abandoned until their owners can find the funds to upgrade them.
Some architectural details show the influence of the Maori culture.
Classic cars, trucks, motorcycles and bicycles are everywhere. The main streets are closed to traffic and thousands of people visit the city, many in period dress. While some are recreations of ‘flapper’ fashions, I spotted this authentic example with piping, frog closures and smocking. The wearer told me that her dress was made in 1931, the hat from sometime in the 30s and the shoes in the 40s. The smocking detail at the waist is exquisite.
Events during the festival were packed with people enjoying picnics, outdoor performances of jazz combos and military bands, fashion shows, vehicle parades, an air show and dancing / music in the closed streets of the downtown. More to come…
February 10
Taupo is located on the volcanic Central Plateau where thermal springs bubble to the surface in many locations. Lake Taupo, with Mount Ruapehu in the hazy distance, is a fine example of a caldera, a deep hollow formed by a massive volcanic eruption. The surrounding area includes Tongariro National Park and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, billed as the greatest one-day hike in the world.
In town, a popular walking/biking trail circles the lake along the waterfront and extends over the headlands into the hills and mountains beyond. On a cool morning, clouds of steam rise along the shore.
Huka Falls on the longest river in NZ, the Waikato, can be reached by a short hike, a tour boat or a jet boat.
The Taupo Museum has an interesting, well-presented collection of local artifacts and Maori culture. I read a first-person account of a local man’s experience with an earthquake in the early 20th century. His vivid report of attempting to return home by horseback involved coaxing his horse to jump over a crevasse that had opened up across the trail as far as he could see. He wrote that, after making the long leap successfully, the horse buried its nose in the rider’s neck and shuddered.
Maori culture is well represented with beautiful wood carvings and weavings.
We enjoyed an afternoon cruise on Lake Taupo to see the Maori rock carvings that were completed in 1980. The main carving stands 14 metres about the lake and, along with the smaller works on each side, commemorates ancestors and guardians important to the local Maori tribe.
February 9
A full day’s drive from the Coromandel Peninsula over the mountains to the central lowlands gave us an appreciation for the dramatic changes in landscape on the North Island. We travelled west from the Pacific coast along twisting roads to the main highway that cuts through fields, farms and small towns on its way south.
A brief stop at Matamata, known as an equestrian and horse breeding centre, was needed to learn more about the highlights of the area. The i-site (NZ’s visitor information centres) is a reminder that we’re in Hobbiton. The set for the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit movies was built on a nearby farm. Tours are available, of course, and something for us to consider when we pass through here in April when we make the return drive northwards.
A natural highlight of the area is the Blue Spring, an outlet for water from the Mamuka Plateau. A short hike from a side road leads to this beautiful spot. On such a warm day, the cicadas are making a racket. The water is so clear we can see the grasses and small fish moving in the current.
Further on we learn that the water we see has taken between 50 and 100 years to the reach the Blue Spring; the rate is fast enough to fill an 6-lane swimming pool in 13 minutes.
At the source of the spring, the blue colour is readily seen in the shaded area in the centre of the photo, behind a rock. The colours of the foliage as well as the spring were vivid in the bright sunshine.
Finally, we found our accommodations in Taupo and enjoyed an evening walk along the lakeside trail.
February 8
We crossed the Coromandel Peninsula to the Pacific coast to find our B&B in the small resort town of Whitianga . A ferry ride across the narrow harbour, then a hike up the hill leads us to an area of seasonal homes and secluded beaches. After a stop for tea and cake, we were revived to walk back to the ferry and Whitianga.
A highlight of this coast is Hot Water Beach where an underground thermal spring rises to the earth’s surface along a short stretch of shoreline at the low tide mark. The plan is to take a bucket and shovel to dig a personal spa at low tide and wait for it to fill with warm spring water.
The scene when we arrived at the beach showed lots of effort but we learned no one had discovered a hint of warmer water.
We quickly found the hot water by digging our toes into the sand right at the waterline and it is hot! There was no need to use our gear; we stood in the surf and let the warm water heat the sand under our feet and between our toes. The trick is to dig right at the water’s edge at low tide where the outlet of the spring can be found, not higher up on the beach where it is still underground.
February 7
A stop at Thames for travel information on our drive to Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula led us to these beautiful gardens on a private estate. The drive from the main road was challenging: narrow lanes, tight corners, one-way bridges and curves, rough surfaces and a school bus. The reward was a lovely walk followed by tea and almond-orange cake. We were revived to continue our journey across the peninsula.
February 6
We travelled route 12, the long, scenic way to the Tasman Coast from the Bay of Islands and then on to Orewa. Once we reached the coast at Hokianga Harbour, the views of the beautiful aqua sea and massive sand dunes were worth a closer look.
Opononi and Omapere are the small towns on the harbour that provide tourist accommodations and cafes. When my tea cup rattled in its saucer, I wondered if this was our first experience of a seismic tremor. No heavy trucks or equipment could be seen.
On we drove to the Waipoua Forest, 20 kilometres of twisty roads that climb and drop constantly, to walk through the rainforest to view Tane Mahuta (Lord of the Forest), a kauri giant. The trees in this forest sanctuary escaped logging because of its remote location and are have been protected since 1940.
At Orewa, on the Pacific Coast, we spent part of the day at the beach, watching the Surf Life Saving Championships. Children from age 3 and adults were taking part in activities, in and out of the water.
February 5
We toured the Treaty Grounds to hear more Maori culture and history. The first interactions with Europeans occurred in the Bay of Islands in the early 1800s. By the 1880s, European settlers outnumbered the Maori. Britain was reported to be a reluctant participant in the government of the early days based on their experience in the American colonies. Once the Treaty of Waitangi was drafted, it was translated and presented to Maori chiefs for their agreement, eventually travelling throughout the North Island to collect the signatures of 500 chiefs. It has remained a controversial document and continues to be the subject of many disputes, settlements and compensation.
The signing of the Treaty of Wataingi signing is celebrated with a national holiday every year on February 6. Events were scheduled for the day we toured, and some areas were inaccessible because of security.
A waka (war canoe) and detail of wood carving with paua shell decoration which is used extensively to adorn Maori carvings.
Maori warrior pose with widened eyes and protruding tongue. These performers presented traditional drumming, dancing and singing at the museum. In the background is a photo of a waka on the bay. 
February 3
Cape Reinga is the northernmost point of the North Island, where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet. A tour bus picked us up at 7:15 am to make the journey north to this popular stop on the tourist itinerary. The line of surf shows where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean collide.
The Tasman coastline to the west of the cape.
Along the way, we stopped to walk through a kauri forest. The few remaining kauri trees in NZ are protected as more than 95% of old-growth forests have been wiped out by logging. These massive trees (49 m tall and 5 m in diameter) were prized for timber and resin. A staircase has been carved in this fossilized trunk on display in a shop that sells products made from ‘reclaimed’ kauri wood that has been buried for centuries.
At Te Paki sand dunes, our tour stops for a short break and the driver unloads boogie boards for those interested in sledding on the huge dunes.
On to 90 Mile Beach along the Tasman Sea where clouds are piling up and rain is threatening. It’s possible to drive along this stretch at low tide although many vehicles become stuck in the soft sand at low tide. Rental car companies specifically forbid driving their vehicles along the beach. We travelled about half the distance of the beach, which is really only 60 miles or 100 kilometres long, then headed towards the Bay of Islands and a late supper, dropping off travellers along the way.
Breezing Through 