Doubtful Sound

March 13

Doubtful Sound is less frequently visited than Milford. Access to this fjord from Te Anau involves a short bus trip to the village of Manipouri, then across Lake Manipouri by boat. From the small visitor centre we travelled by bus over a 1-lane dirt road to the departure point for our cruise on Doubtful Sound. Interesting to learn that our luxurious new coach for the second part of the journey had just been transported by barge across the lake to provide service on this rough road. Landslides and washouts are common; our driver assured us that she was in constant contact with the base in case of any problems. To board the boat, a set of heavy metal staircases and a wharf have been fastened to the cliff face. There’s no luxurious departure lounge with souvenirs and washrooms here as Milford offers.

Although the day dawned with scattered clouds in Te Anau, heavy rain set in for our trip across Lake Manipouri and down to the cruise boat. It gradually stopped and clouds lifted to reveal cliffs and mountaintops. With all the rain in the past 24 hours, waterfalls were streaming off the cliffs. With fewer tourists and boats, the fjord is eerie and silent. Due to its remote location, this is the same scene that Captain James Cook would have viewed on his Tasman Sea voyage in 1770. He named it Doubtful Harbour as he doubted whether it was navigable under sail.

As the mist clears on our return from the Tasman Sea, a ship appears from the channel around Secretary Island. The Golden Princess is circumnavigating New Zealand; eventually we will travel homewards from Auckland to Los Angeles on board this ship. Cruise ships have restricted access to Doubtful Sound and are not permitted in Milford Sound.

At the main wharf near our departure point, the Fiordland Navigator is taking on provisions and passengers for an overnight journey. This 3-masted cruise boat provides nature photography sessions, kayaking and even swimming for the hardy as part of the itinerary.